How to Create a Knitwear Tech Pack

The tech pack is the contract between your design and the factory floor. A clear one gets you an accurate quote and a first sample that's close on the first try. A vague one costs you sampling rounds, time and money — and usually a garment that isn't quite what you pictured.

Knitwear tech packs are a little different from woven or jersey cut-and-sew. The garment isn't cut from fabric; it's knitted into shape. So alongside the usual measurements and trims, your manufacturer needs to know how the fabric itself is built. Here's the full checklist.

1. Flat sketch & spec

A clean front and back technical sketch — proportions to scale, every seam, panel and detail called out. Add close-ups for anything unusual: a collar construction, a pocket, a special hem. Photos or reference garments help enormously; if you have a sample you love, send it.

2. Knit structure & gauge

This is the knit-specific core, and the part brands most often leave out:

• Gauge (gg) — needles per inch, which sets how fine or chunky the knit is. Roughly: 3–5gg is chunky, 7–9gg mid-weight, 12–14gg fine. We run 3–14gg.
• Stitch / structure — jersey, rib (1×1, 2×2), cable, intarsia, jacquard, pointelle, links-links. Name it, and show it on the sketch where it appears.
• Construction — fully-fashioned (shaped on the machine), cut-and-sew from knitted panels, or seamless WHOLEGARMENT. Each has different cost and look.

3. Yarn & composition

Specify the fibre and the yarn count, not just "wool". For example: 2/28Nm 100% extra-fine merino, or cashmere/wool 30/70 blend. If you don't know the exact count, describe the hand-feel and weight you want and we'll match it. Note any certification you need (OEKO-TEX, GOTS organic, GRS recycled). If colour-matching to a Pantone, list the TPX/TCX numbers.

4. Measurements (points of measure)

A graded spec sheet with your base size and the key points of measure — body length, chest, shoulder, sleeve length, cuff, hem, neck width and depth. Include tolerances. Remember knitwear relaxes and can grow or shrink more than woven, so realistic tolerances matter. We'll advise if a measurement isn't achievable in a given gauge.

5. Colourways

List every colourway with references. For multi-colour techniques (intarsia, jacquard), supply a clear colour-placement diagram — which colour sits where, and the maximum number of colours per row (Shima Seiki supports intarsia up to 16 colours in one course).

6. Trims, labels & packaging

Woven or printed brand label and placement, care label content, size labels, hang tags, buttons or zippers, and how you want each piece folded, polybagged and cartoned. This is what makes the garment yours and retail-ready — private label done properly.

7. Care & compliance

Care instructions and any market compliance you require — REACH (EU), CPSIA (US children's), GPSR. Flag the destination market early so the right documentation travels with the goods.

Common mistakes to avoid

• No gauge or stitch — the single most common gap. Without it we can only guess at the fabric.
• "Wool" with no count — weight and count change everything about drape and price.
• Unrealistic tolerances — knit isn't woven; over-tight tolerances cause needless reject rounds.
• Missing colour placement for intarsia/jacquard — leads to a sample that's the right idea, wrong layout.

Don't have a full tech pack yet?

You don't need a perfect one to start. Send what you have — a sketch, a reference garment, even a clear brief — and we'll tell you what's missing and help fill the gaps. See how our process works, or browse the knitwear glossary if any term here is new.