Since Brexit, Great Britain has its own chemicals regime. Here's what UK REACH means for the dyes and finishes in your knitwear — and how to source compliantly.
From 1 January 2021, Great Britain left EU REACH and stood up its own UK REACH regime, administered by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE). For apparel it carries the same core idea as before — restrictions on hazardous substances — but it is now a separate legal framework with its own restricted-substances schedule, and it is diverging from EU REACH as both frameworks evolve independently. The importer of knitwear into the UK is the responsible party — not the factory in Turkey. This guide explains where the risk sits in knitwear, what documentation protects you, and how certified-yarn sourcing simplifies the compliance position.
| Element | UK REACH (GB) | EU REACH |
|---|---|---|
| Administrator | Health and Safety Executive (HSE) | European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) |
| Jurisdiction | Great Britain (England, Scotland, Wales) | EU27 + EEA |
| Restricted substances lists | UK REACH Annex XVII (started as EU copy, now diverging) | EU REACH Annex XVII (updated regularly by ECHA) |
| Registration obligation | UK-only registrations required for substances placed on GB market | EU registrations under ECHA |
| Alignment with EU | Broadly aligned but diverging over time | EU standard |
For a UK knitwear brand, the practical implication is that compliance with EU REACH does not automatically satisfy UK REACH, and vice versa — although the substance lists are currently broadly similar. As the frameworks diverge, a brand selling into both GB and EU markets may eventually need to track both lists.
The risk in knitwear under UK REACH (and EU REACH) sits primarily in what is applied to the fibre, not the fibre itself. Raw wool, cotton or cashmere is not the concern. The chemistry added during processing is:
Certain azo dyes can break down to release carcinogenic aromatic amines. Both UK REACH and EU REACH restrict specific azo dye compounds in textiles (Annex XVII Entry 43). The limits apply to the final garment — the dye supplier and yarn spinner must test and certify compliance. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 testing covers azo dyes as a core element.
Formaldehyde-based finishes are used in some knitwear for crease resistance. UK REACH sets limits; many retailers additionally restrict formaldehyde to levels below the regulatory limit via their Restricted Substances List (RSL). Knitwear made from pure fibre without finish treatments typically has low formaldehyde risk — the issue arises with treated fabrics.
Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) are surfactants that may be used in scouring and finishing processes during yarn or fabric preparation. Both UK and EU REACH restrict certain APE compounds in textile articles above defined concentrations. OEKO-TEX testing includes APEO as part of its standard assessment.
Nickel restrictions apply to metal articles in prolonged contact with skin — relevant for metal buttons, zip pulls and decorative hardware on knitwear. The garment manufacturer must ensure trims are sourced from nickel-compliant suppliers. A standard OEKO-TEX assessment covers knitwear but the trim supply chain is a specific area to confirm.
Certain flame retardants (PFAS, HBCDD and others) are restricted. Standard knitwear garments are not treated with flame retardants. If your product specification includes any flame-retardant treatment — for performance garments, children's nightwear or similar — specific compliance testing is required.
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) used in water-repellent or performance coatings are subject to growing regulatory attention under both UK and EU frameworks. Standard knitwear without performance finishing is not typically PFAS-relevant. Performance knitwear with DWR (durable water repellent) treatment requires verification.
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 is a product certification that tests textile articles against ~100 parameters — azo dyes, heavy metals, formaldehyde, pH, pesticides, APEOs and more. Certified yarns are independently tested and recertified annually. The certificate covers the specific yarn batch and can be passed through the supply chain as evidence of compliance. This is the most practical route for a knitwear brand: source certified yarns, collect the certificates, use them as compliance evidence for UK REACH and retail RSL purposes.
A UK-accredited testing laboratory (SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek, Cotecna, UKAS-accredited) can test a finished knitwear garment against a specific list of substances. This generates a test report confirming compliance at that point in time for that production lot. Test reports are required by some UK retailers as part of vendor onboarding, independently of yarn certification. If your retail buyer requires third-party test reports, these are commissioned at the garment stage, typically in the buyer's nominated lab.
For most brands, OEKO-TEX certified yarns plus the certificate documentation provide sufficient evidence for UK REACH compliance in day-to-day sourcing. If a specific retail buyer requires a garment-level test report from a nominated lab, that is an additional step — we can support the testing logistics.
Include a certification requirement in your yarn specification: "OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified yarn required — please supply certificate." This puts the requirement into the manufacturing contract from the start. We source certified yarns as a standard option across our range.
For each production run, obtain the OEKO-TEX yarn certificate (or equivalent mill certification). Keep it on file with the production order. This is the document you produce if a buyer's compliance team or a regulator asks for evidence of restricted substance compliance.
If your brand has a Restricted Substances List — either your own or your lead retail buyer's — share it with us before sampling begins. We produce to your RSL and flag any specification that creates a compliance risk. Many UK retailers (ASOS, Next, John Lewis) publish their RSL requirements; we are familiar with the common versions.
If your retail buyer requires third-party garment testing, arrange this on the first approved salesman sample and retain the report. For reorders from the same yarn/construction, you can typically reference the existing test report — confirm the retailer's retesting policy. Testing labs we commonly work with for UK buyers: SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek.
As the UK importer (or the brand placing goods on the GB market), UK REACH compliance responsibility sits with you — not with us as the Turkish manufacturer. This is the standard position under the regulation. What we provide is the yarn and manufacturing documentation that supports your compliance position:
OEKO-TEX yarn certificates for certified-yarn programmes. Yarn supplier declarations confirming fibre content and origin. Sample documentation for testing facilitation. Cooperation with your nominated testing laboratory.
Placing compliant goods on the GB market. Maintaining the documentation file (certificates, test reports) for 4+ years. Complying with any retail buyer RSL requirements. Taking qualified legal/compliance advice if your specific product or channel creates unusual UK REACH obligations.
Send your spec and any buyer RSL requirements. We'll quote with OEKO-TEX certified yarn options and confirm the documentation package your UK compliance position needs.
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