Reference · A–Z

Knitwear Glossary

An A–Z reference for sourcing managers, designers and tech-pack creators — yarn types, knit structures, machines, certifications and the commercial terms you'll meet when sourcing knitwear.

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A

Acrylic
A synthetic yarn known for affordability, durability and moth resistance — often blended with natural fibres for performance.
Alpaca
A luxurious natural fibre prized for softness, warmth and hypoallergenic properties.
Argyle
A classic knitted pattern of diamonds and intersecting lines, traditional in socks and sweaters.
AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit)
The maximum defect rate considered acceptable in a batch during QC inspection. AQL 2.5 is a common standard.

B

Bamboo
A sustainable fibre known for softness, breathability and moisture-wicking.
BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)
A programme promoting sustainable cotton, reducing water use and pesticides.
Blocking
A finishing process that shapes and sets knitted fabric, improving drape and dimensions.
Blending
Combining yarn types to achieve strength, softness or cost targets.

C

Cable Knit
A textured pattern of interlocking loops resembling rope.
Cashmere
A luxury fibre from cashmere goats, renowned for softness, warmth and light weight.
Circular Knitting
Forming fabric in a circular fashion, common for jersey and rib knits.
CPSIA
US legislation regulating children's product safety, including lead content and phthalates.
Cut-and-Sew
Construction by cutting knitted panels and sewing them together.

D

Denier
A unit of linear mass density for fibres; lower denier means a finer fibre.
DAP (Delivered at Place)
An Incoterm where the seller delivers to a named place; buyer covers import duties.
DDP (Delivered Duty Paid)
An Incoterm where the seller covers all costs to destination, including duties.
Garment Dye
Dyeing finished garments for flexibility and unique effects.

E

Enzyme Wash
A finish using enzymes to soften fabric, remove fuzz and create a worn-in look.
EXW (Ex Works)
An Incoterm where the seller makes goods available at their premises; buyer covers all onward costs.

F

First Article
A sample produced to confirm construction, materials and quality before bulk.
Flat-Knit
Knitting fabric in a flat plane, allowing complex patterns and shaping — our core method.
Fully-Fashioned
Shaping garments during knitting, minimising waste and improving fit.
FOB (Free On Board)
An Incoterm where the seller delivers goods on board a vessel at a named port.

G

Gauge (gg)
Needles per inch on a machine, determining knit fineness. We run 3–14gg.
GPSR (General Product Safety Regulation)
EU regulation ensuring products placed on the market are safe.
GRS (Global Recycled Standard)
Certification verifying recycled content and responsible production.
GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
A measure of fabric weight, indicating density and thickness.

H

High-Bulk Yarn
Yarn engineered for a loftier, more voluminous knit.
Honeycomb Knit
A textured knit resembling a honeycomb, with good insulation and drape.

I

Incoterms
Internationally recognised trade terms defining buyer and seller responsibilities.
Interlock Knit
A rib-like structure known for stability, smoothness and resistance to curling.
Intarsia
A technique creating blocks of colour within a garment. Shima Seiki supports intarsia up to 16 colours per course.

J

Jacquard Knit
A complex pattern using multiple yarn colours and varied structures.
Jersey Knit
A basic single-knit fabric known for softness, drape and stretch.

L

L/C (Letter of Credit)
A payment method providing security for both buyer and seller in trade.
Lead Time
The time from order placement to shipment.
Linking
A hand-finishing technique that joins knitted pieces seamlessly.
Links-Links Knit
A rib-knit variation offering excellent elasticity and recovery.

M

Merino Wool
A high-quality wool known for softness, warmth and breathability.
Milano Knit
A substantial double-knit with a ribbed texture and excellent structure.
Mohair
A luxury fibre from Angora goats, known for silky texture and halo effect.
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
The smallest quantity a manufacturer will produce. Ours is 250 per colour.

N

Nearshoring
Sourcing closer to the final market to cut lead times and transport cost.
Nm / Ne
Units of yarn count (linear mass density). Nm is metric, Ne is English.
Nickel Release
A compliance limit on nickel released from products that contact skin.

O

OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Certification that textiles are free from harmful substances.
Organic Cotton (GOTS)
Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, GOTS-certified.
Ottoman Knit
A textured double-knit with raised ribs and a luxurious feel.

P

Pilling
Small balls of fibre forming on a fabric's surface with wear.
Piece Dye
Dyeing fabric after knitting, for colour flexibility.
Pointelle Knit
A lightweight knit with small decorative holes, breathable and textured.
Polyester
A synthetic fibre known for durability, wrinkle resistance and affordability.
Pre-Production Sample
A sample confirming all details before bulk production.
Pressing
A finish using heat and pressure to remove wrinkles and shape fabric.

Q

Quality Control
The process of ensuring products meet specified standards.
Quilting
Joining layers of fabric by stitching, often for warmth and texture.

R

RCS (Recycled Claim Standard)
Certification verifying the presence and amount of recycled material.
REACH
EU regulation on the safe use of chemicals (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction).
Recycled Polyester (GRS)
Polyester made from recycled bottles or post-consumer waste.
RSL (Restricted Substance List)
A list of chemicals prohibited or restricted in textile production.
Rib Knit
A structure with vertical ribs, offering excellent elasticity and recovery.
RWS (Responsible Wool Standard)
Certification for wool from farms with responsible land and animal welfare practices.

S

Sample Room
A dedicated space for creating and evaluating samples.
Seamless Knitting (WHOLEGARMENT)
Knitting a garment in its entirety, eliminating cutting and sewing.
Shima Seiki
A leading Japanese manufacturer of flat-knit machines, known for precision.
Shrinkage
The reduction in fabric size after washing or treatment.
Size Set
A complete range of sizes produced as a sample for fit and grading.
Steaming
A finish using steam to remove wrinkles and shape fabric.
Stoll CMS
A leading German manufacturer of flat-knit machines with advanced capabilities.
SVHC (Substances of Very High Concern)
Chemicals identified by REACH as posing significant risks.

T

T/T (Telegraphic Transfer)
A payment method using electronic transfer of funds.
TENCEL™ Lyocell
A sustainable fibre from wood pulp, soft, breathable and eco-friendly.
Tech Pack
The document containing everything needed to manufacture a garment.
Tex
A unit of linear mass density for fibres, similar to denier.
Tolerance
The acceptable variation in measurements or specifications.
TOP Sample
The final approved sample representing exact bulk specifications.

U–Z

UV Protection
A fabric's ability to block harmful ultraviolet rays.
Vertical Integration
Controlling multiple supply-chain stages, from yarn to finishing.
WHOLEGARMENT
Shima Seiki's seamless knitting technology, creating one-piece garments.
Warp Knitting
Forming fabric by looping yarn in a lengthwise direction.
Yarn Count
A measure of yarn's linear mass density (Nm, Ne, denier or tex).
ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals)
A programme to eliminate hazardous chemicals from the textile supply chain.
Zero-Defect
A QC philosophy aiming to eliminate all defects in production.

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