An honest comparison for UK brands deciding where to make their knitwear. Where Turkey wins — duty-free FTA access, MOQ, lead time, IP, communication — and where China still makes sense.
For most brands, China is the default — and for very large commodity runs it still competes on price. But for the mid-sized, design-led knitwear programmes we make, Turkey usually wins on the numbers that matter: faster delivery, zero UK import duty under the UK–Türkiye FTA, stronger IP protection and the same Japanese/German machines. Here is the honest breakdown.
| Factor | Turkey (Kiwi) | China |
|---|---|---|
| Sample lead time | 10–14 days | 2–3 weeks |
| Bulk lead time | 45–60 days | 6–8 weeks |
| Transit to UK (Felixstowe) | ~10–14 days (ocean) | 4–6 weeks |
| UK import duty | Zero (UK–Türkiye FTA) | ~8–12% MFN |
| IP / design protection | Strong (enforceable NDAs) | Moderate–weak |
| Modern Slavery supply chain | Single-site, documentable | Complex, harder to audit |
| Machines | Shima Seiki + Stoll | Variable by factory |
| Communication | English, founder-direct | Often via agent |
| Best for | Mid-sized, design-led programmes | Very large commodity runs |
Figures are indicative and vary by style, yarn and season.
The UK–Türkiye FTA lets qualifying Turkish knitwear enter the UK at zero tariff. The same product from China pays the UK Global Tariff — currently around 8–12% for most Chapter 61 knitwear, depending on fibre and construction. That is a real, calculable landed-cost difference on every unit.
| Garment (illustrative) | FOB Turkey | UK duty (Turkey, FTA) | FOB China | UK duty (China, MFN ~12%) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton crew-neck jumper | $14 FOB | $0 | $11 FOB | ~$1.32 |
| Merino cardigan | $26 FOB | $0 | $20 FOB | ~$2.40 |
| Cashmere-blend sweater | $42 FOB | $0 | $35 FOB | ~$4.20 |
FOB prices are illustrative. The duty saving does not always close the full FOB gap — China's commodity unit cost can still be lower on high-volume basics. But the gap narrows materially once duty, longer freight, larger minimum order and IP risk are included. The FTA benefit applies per unit, on every piece — and at cashmere price points, it is a significant line item.
One requirement: qualifying for the zero rate means the knitwear must meet the rules of origin under the FTA. We supply EUR.1 certificates of origin with every shipment. Rules of origin explained →
Every size is knitted as its own fully-fashioned programme on Shima Seiki and Stoll machines — not cut from shared fabric — so the fit is true and the garment holds its shape wash after wash.
Ocean freight from Mersin to Felixstowe takes roughly 10–14 days. The equivalent from a Chinese port takes four to six weeks. For seasonal DTC and boutique programmes, that gap is not just a schedule question — it is the difference between restocking a winner in-season and arriving after the season peak has passed.
Enforceable NDAs under Turkish law protect your designs and colourways. The risk of a design reappearing in a third-party catalogue — a genuine concern some brands raise about Chinese sourcing — is significantly lower from a single-factory relationship with documented NDA terms.
A single factory in Gaziantep, Turkey — one site to name, audit and document in your Modern Slavery statement. A multi-tier Chinese supply chain with yarn, spinning, knitting and finishing split across multiple facilities is a more complex document. For UK brands above the £36m threshold (and smaller brands whose buyers request statements), simplicity has value.
We will tell you straight: for very large single-SKU commodity runs (well over 10,000 units of one basic style at standard cotton gauge), China's scale and yarn integration can still win on unit cost, even accounting for duty and freight. If that is your programme, China may be the better call.
China also has depth in jersey cut-and-sew at scale — woven-detail knitwear, mixed-fabric outerwear — that is not our core capability. For mid-sized, design-led, compliance-sensitive flat-knit knitwear with fast season turns, Turkey is built for the job. We won't overstate our competitive position on categories where China genuinely wins.
It applies to knitwear that meets the rules of origin — which for most flat-knit garments means the yarn is spun and knitted in Turkey or in an eligible cumulation country. We review origin eligibility at the tech pack stage and supply EUR.1 certificates where the product qualifies. Some blended or specially sourced yarns may affect eligibility — we will flag this upfront.
Most brands that approach us have an existing China relationship for other product categories. Turkey and China can coexist sensibly: China for high-volume jersey basics, Turkey for flat-knit knitwear where the FTA, MOQ and lead time advantages apply. Running a pilot for one style or category is a common starting point — no commitment to switch entirely.
We run Shima Seiki (Japan) and Stoll CMS (Germany) — the same manufacturers as leading workshops in China. Machine brand is not in itself a differentiator; the programme, the team and the quality system around the machines matter. We operate them in-house with in-house QC and finishing, not outsourced to a subcontractor.
Compare on landed cost (FOB + freight + duty + broker fees), not FOB alone. Add the duty saving to the Turkey column; add longer freight costs and the MOQ capital commitment to the China column. Run the numbers on your actual programme quantity and style. We can help model this if you share a tech pack and indicative quantity.
Send a tech pack or a brief. We respond within one business day with a capacity check, indicative pricing and a sample timeline — compare it directly against your China quote.
TURKEY VS CHINA