The sample approval is the cheapest point to catch problems. Here is what to actually check, how to communicate corrections, and how to know when you have something you can approve.
The sample approval is the most important stage in the knitwear sourcing process. Whatever you approve — in writing — is what the factory will replicate for 250 to 1,000 pieces. Approving a sample you're not fully satisfied with, or providing vague feedback that doesn't isolate the problem, leads directly to a bulk run that misses specification. This guide gives you a systematic checklist for reviewing knitwear samples, how to communicate clearly, and how to decide when to approve.
The proto (or development sample) is the factory's first interpretation of your tech pack or reference garment. It is made from available yarn — often not your specified yarn — to confirm construction, gauge, and silhouette. Do not reject a proto because the colour is wrong if you haven't yet specified colour standards. Evaluate construction, fit and proportion at this stage.
The counter sample incorporates your comments from the proto round. This is the round where you check whether your feedback was correctly understood and applied. Be specific in reviewing against your previous comments — did the factory change what you asked? Did other things change unintentionally? Is the yarn now the specified yarn? This is typically the round where fit and construction should be resolved.
A salesman sample is fully specified — correct yarn, correct colour, correct labels, correct measurements. It is typically made for buyer showrooms or sales agent use. Not all brands need salesman samples — DTC brands typically go from counter sample to approved sample. For wholesale, SMSs are used for the buyer order confirmation process and must match the approved production standard.
The TOP sample is produced from the actual bulk run — same machines, same yarn lot, same operators. It is sent to you for final approval before the full bulk is released. Check the TOP against your approved sample very carefully. Discrepancies at TOP stage are the last opportunity to stop a run that has gone off-spec. Once you approve the TOP (or release payment against the bill of lading), you have accepted the bulk.
Work through this in order. Photograph every point of comment against the garment.
Count stitches and courses per 10cm in the body panel. Does it match the specified gauge? A 7gg garment should have approximately 6–7 needles per inch across the width. If the gauge is visibly different from your reference — coarser or finer — flag it explicitly. Gauge drives hand-feel, weight and drape; it cannot be corrected at finishing.
Is this the yarn you specified? Check the hand-feel against your reference swatch or reference garment. Is the lustre right? Is the softness right? Ask the factory to confirm the yarn Nm and fibre content in writing. If it doesn't feel right, request the yarn label from the cone used in sampling. A factory using the wrong yarn for the proto round is normal; continuing to use it at counter sample stage is a problem.
Compare against your Pantone reference or physical swatch in daylight (D65 standard if you have a lightbox). Note: knitwear in wool or cashmere will often read slightly differently to a woven swatch in the same colour due to fibre light interaction. Evaluate whether the colour difference is acceptable in the context of the finished garment. If not, specify whether to go warmer/cooler, lighter/darker — and provide a physical swatch as the dye standard if you have one.
Measure against your tech pack graded size chart. Measure while the garment is flat and relaxed — do not stretch. Key measurements to check: chest width at underarm (PTP — pit-to-pit), body length (centre back from neck seam to hem), sleeve length (from underarm to cuff), sleeve width at bicep, collar opening circumference. Document every measurement and the tolerance. Typical acceptable tolerance for knitwear: ±1.5–2cm.
Put the garment on a fit model or mannequin (or yourself if the size is appropriate). Does the silhouette read as intended — fitted, relaxed, oversized? Are the shoulder seams landing in the right place? Is the body length flattering for the intended silhouette? Is the sleeve length right relative to body length? Proportions are not captured by flat measurements — you need to see the garment in 3D to evaluate them correctly.
Check all construction details against spec: Is the neck rib specified correctly (single jersey vs. 1×1 rib vs. rolled neck)? Are the cuff and hem ribs correct in terms of rib pattern, depth and elasticity? Is the linking seam (shoulder, side) clean and flat? Is the armhole correctly shaped — square vs. set-in vs. raglan as specified? Look at the inside of the garment for floats (on fairisle / intarsia) — are they contained correctly?
Finishing is the final stage after knitting and linking — washing, blocking, steaming. A well-finished garment has even tension, correct dimensions, and a consistent hand-feel across the whole garment. Signs of poor finishing: uneven tension in different panels, puckering at seams, wavy hems, unblocked fabric that springs when released. These issues suggest the factory's finishing process is insufficient — a flag that applies to bulk, not just sampling.
At counter sample stage and beyond, the labels should be in the garment: care label, fibre composition label, brand label, country of origin. Check that the fibre composition is accurate and uses UK Textile Regulations approved terminology (e.g. "Wool" not "laine"). Check that care symbols are appropriate for the yarn. Check that label placement is consistent with your spec (centre back neck, left side seam, etc.). A label error in a bulk run can mean relabelling 500 garments.
Vague feedback produces vague corrections. Factories work from explicit, measurable instructions — the same way they work from a tech pack. Apply the same discipline to your comments.
| Weak feedback | Precise feedback |
|---|---|
| "The colour is wrong" | "Colour is too warm/yellow. Please add 10–15% more cool grey. New dye standard: see attached swatch." |
| "The fit isn't right" | "Chest (PTP) measures 51cm. Target is 48cm. Please reduce chest by 3cm." |
| "The yarn is too scratchy" | "Yarn feels coarser than our reference sample. Please confirm micron count. Target is 19-micron max merino." |
| "The sleeve is too long" | "Sleeve measures 64cm from underarm. Target is 60cm. Please reduce by 4cm." |
| "The neck looks wrong" | "Neck rib depth is 4cm. Spec calls for 6cm. Please increase neck rib depth by 2cm." |
| "The quality isn't good enough" | "Side seam linking is uneven — seam peaks and dips by 0.5–1cm across the length. Please improve linking consistency." |
Gauge correct. Measurements within ±1.5cm of spec. Yarn matches specification. Colour matches standard within acceptable range (evaluate on the finished garment, not just the swatch). Labels correct. Construction matches spec. Finishing is clean and even. Silhouette reads as intended on a fit model. You would be proud to sell this garment. If all of these are true, approve in writing and mark the sample with the date and "APPROVED".
Any measurement more than 2cm outside spec. Wrong yarn used (different Nm, wrong fibre). Colour clearly outside the dye standard. Construction error (wrong rib, incorrect seam type). Labels absent or wrong. Finishing visibly uneven or puckered. One or two specific issues that are clearly fixable — request a targeted counter sample addressing those specific issues only. Don't re-specify everything; only what is wrong.
If a counter sample continues to fail on the same points that were corrected in Round 1, or introduces new issues while correcting old ones, this suggests a more fundamental communication or capability problem. Before commissioning a third round, have a direct call with the factory to review each comment point — verify that your feedback was understood, that the correct yarn is available, and that the machine operator understands the spec. If after three rounds the sample is still significantly off-spec, the relationship is not working.
The most expensive mistake in knitwear sourcing is approving a sample you are not actually satisfied with to avoid the inconvenience of another round. One more sample round costs £60–150 and 10–14 days. A production run of 250 pieces that misses specification costs thousands of pounds in stock you may not be able to sell. The sample round is not the time to compromise — it is the time to insist on what you actually need.
When you approve a sample, send a formal written approval by email — not just "looks good, go ahead." The written approval protects both parties and prevents disputes at the production or delivery stage.
State the exact style name/number, the colourway, and which round of sample you are approving ("Counter sample, Round 2, received [date]").
Confirm the specification that production should match: gauge, yarn (Nm, fibre), colour standard (reference the swatch or Pantone reference), key measurements for the production size. If there were revisions requested for bulk that aren't in the sample (e.g. minor measurement adjustment), state them here.
List any items that were discussed but not reflected in the sample — for example: "As discussed, the care label wording will be changed to [exact wording] for bulk." This prevents disagreements later about what was agreed verbally.
State that you require a TOP sample sent to [address] before bulk release. Agree timing — "please send TOP within 3 days of production commencement." This is your final check before the full run is finished.
Brands that review carefully and communicate precisely get better bulk outcomes. We provide a sample comment form with each proto sample that prompts you through the key review criteria — making it easier to give us the feedback we need to get your garment right.
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