A complete knitwear tech pack is the single document that turns your design into a manufacturable garment. Here's what needs to be in it — and the gaps that delay sampling.
The tech pack is the contract between you and the factory. A complete, precise tech pack produces a first sample that is close to your intention. An incomplete tech pack produces a factory's interpretation — which may or may not align with what you wanted, and every round of corrections adds two weeks to your timeline. This guide covers what every knitwear tech pack needs, the UK-specific elements that matter, and the gaps we see most often from first-time clients.
Front and back flat-lay sketch with construction details called out — neckline shape, sleeve construction, hem and cuff finish, pocket detail if applicable. A flat lay is more useful than a fashion illustration, which distorts proportions and construction. Sketch in Adobe Illustrator or equivalent; hand-drawn with clear dimensions is acceptable.
Fibre content (with percentages and any certification requirement — OEKO-TEX, GOTS, GRS, RWS), yarn count (Nm or Ne), ply, twist direction if relevant. "Cashmere" is not a yarn spec; "100% Grade A 2/28Nm cashmere, Z-twist, natural white" is. If you don't have the yarn count, send a reference garment — we can gauge-match and identify the yarn type.
Machine gauge (needles per inch): 3gg, 5gg, 7gg, 10gg, 12gg, 14gg. Gauge determines the knit density and is closely linked to yarn count. If you don't specify gauge, we will recommend one based on your yarn spec and the look you're targeting — but confirm our recommendation before sampling begins. A reference garment you want to gauge-match is the most reliable brief.
Stitch type (plain jersey, rib, cable, intarsia, jacquard, moss stitch, pointelle). For cable, provide a stitch diagram or reference — cable designs vary enormously. For intarsia or jacquard, provide the colour artwork separately. For WHOLEGARMENT, confirm this is the specification — it affects machine selection and pricing.
Graded measurements across your UK size range (typically 8–18 women's, S–XL men's). Points of measure for knitwear: chest width (half), body length (CB), sleeve length (from CB), sleeve width at bicep, cuff width, shoulder width, neck opening width. Knitwear has different measurement conventions to woven — confirm with us if you're new to knitwear grading.
The colours you need, with Pantone or RAL reference numbers. For stock-coloured yarns, we will match as closely as available stock allows. For bespoke dyed colours, lab dips (dyed swatch samples) are required to confirm the match before bulk yarn is dyed — add 2–3 weeks to the sample stage for bespoke dyeing.
Specify label type (woven, printed, heat-transfer), placement (back neck, side seam, front hem), and size. For UK retail, the care label must carry ISO 3758 symbols, fibre content with percentages, and country of origin ("Made in Turkey"). Supply artwork for brand label; we handle care label content specification.
UK sizing differs from EU and US grading. State your target UK size range and the corresponding measurements. If you have an existing size run, supply your graded measurement chart. If starting fresh, we can grade from a UK base size — confirm which size is your base (usually UK 12) and we grade outward.
If your buyer requires OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 or specific UK REACH documentation for restricted substances, state this in the tech pack. We source certified yarns as standard — but if you have a specific retail requirement (a department store or online platform with explicit certification requirements), flag it upfront so we can confirm the documentation path.
Specify folding format (flat fold, hung), polybag size and any retail swing tag requirements. For UK retail suppliers with specific pack requirements (vendor guide specifications), supply those documents early — some retailers have exacting pack standards that affect the final presentation. Barcode / EAN on swing tags: confirm responsibility (we supply the garment; you typically supply branded swing tags).
The most common issue. A sketch without measurements produces a sample to the factory's assumption of your intended size. Always include measurements — even a single-size measurement chart (for the base size only) lets us sample to your specification and then agree the grading before bulk.
"Natural fibres" or "sustainable yarn" is not a specification. We need fibre content, percentage, count and any certification requirement. If you don't know the yarn count for your reference, send the physical garment — we can identify and match.
For cable knit, a sketch alone is not sufficient — cables have many variants (simple cable, aran, honeycomb, twisted rib) and the wrong interpretation will require another sample round. Send a reference image or a physical garment for stitch-matching.
Label requirements determined late in the process cause delays — particularly for UK retail with specific label placement or format requirements. Confirm your label spec before or during the first sample stage so the final approved sample carries the correct labels and packaging.
Send us what you have — sketch, reference garment, mood board or a detailed brief. We'll tell you what we need to confirm before sampling begins, and walk you through any gaps.
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