What you need to know to source cashmere knitwear that is actually cashmere — grade, yarn provenance, certification, and why Turkey is a legitimate cashmere manufacturing location.
Cashmere is one of the most counterfeited and misrepresented materials in fashion. The market for cashmere knitwear is also significant in the UK — the premium knitwear segment is where margins are protected and brand reputation is built. This guide covers what cashmere actually is, how grade and fibre quality affect the finished garment, where cashmere yarn is sourced and processed, and what a UK brand should verify before placing a cashmere order with any manufacturer.
Cashmere is the fine undercoat fibre from Capra hircus goats, primarily from Inner Mongolia, outer Mongolia, China, Afghanistan and Iran. The word "cashmere" tells you the animal and the fibre type — it does not tell you the quality.
Premium cashmere fibres are longer — typically 36mm or above. Longer fibres produce a smoother yarn, pill less in wear, and produce a more lustrous finished fabric. Short-fibre cashmere pills significantly after a few wears. Fibre length is the most important single determinant of cashmere quality — more than country of origin, more than processing location.
Premium cashmere is typically 14–15.5 microns. Standard commercial cashmere runs to 16.5 microns; lower grades can be 17–18 microns and feel noticeably coarser. Diameter is measured in the yarn test certificate — ask to see it. A specification that quotes diameter gives you a verifiable quality commitment. A specification that just says "100% cashmere" gives you nothing.
A 2/28 Nm yarn means two plies of 28 Nm singles twisted together — this is the workhorse construction for cashmere jumpers. It's stronger and more stable than 1-ply. A 4-ply (2/14 Nm) produces a chunkier, warmer garment. The ply and Nm count determine gauge range and finished garment weight. Your factory should specify both; if they only say "cashmere yarn", probe for the Nm and ply count.
Cashmere/merino blends (typically 30/70 or 50/50) offer good softness at a significantly lower FOB price point. They are a legitimate product — but must be labelled accurately under UK Textile Regulations with the exact percentage of each fibre. "Cashmere blend" in marketing is fine; "cashmere" in a fibre composition label when it contains 30% cashmere is a compliance violation. Label accurately; the penalty is not worth the upside.
| Grade | Typical fibre spec | Typical application | UK retail positioning |
|---|---|---|---|
| A / Premium | 14–15.5 micron, 36mm+ | Fine-gauge (12–14gg) lightweight jumpers, scarves | £180–£380 retail; luxury DTC / boutiques |
| B / Standard | 15.5–16.5 micron, 32–36mm | Mid-gauge (7–10gg) jumpers, cardigans | £100–£200 retail; accessible premium |
| C / Commercial | 16.5–18 micron, short fibre | Chunky gauge, blends, accessories | £60–£120 retail; fast fashion "cashmere" |
Most UK premium brand launches work at Grade B, possibly Grade A for a hero piece. Grade C is defensible for accessories or blends but will pill noticeably in jumper construction — UK consumers buying at £120+ expect better than that. We recommend specifying Grade A or B explicitly and requesting the yarn test certificate before production begins.
Turkey is not a cashmere-producing country — there are no Capra hircus herds in Turkey of meaningful commercial scale. Raw cashmere fibre comes almost entirely from Central Asia (Inner and outer Mongolia, China). What Turkey provides is the manufacturing capability: spinning, knitting, linking, finishing. The yarn supply chain for Turkish cashmere knitwear typically works as follows:
Raw cashmere is combed from the goat in spring, sorted, and exported as raw or semi-processed fibre. Major trading hubs: Datong (China), Erlian (China/Mongolia border). Turkish spinners import these raw materials — the same supply chain used by Italian spinners.
Higher-end Turkish knitwear factories source cashmere yarn from established Turkish spinners or import Italian-spun cashmere yarn from Biella-region spinners. Italian-spun cashmere (Zegna Baruffa, Cariaggi, Filpucci) is the reference for premium quality and commands a price premium. For a UK premium brand, Italian-spun cashmere from a Turkish manufacturer is a defensible and attractive proposition — the manufacturing quality of Turkey plus Italian yarn heritage.
Cashmere does not have an equivalent of the Woolmark scheme, but OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 certification on the yarn verifies restricted substance compliance (important for UK REACH). Some spinners also provide Authentic Cashmere certificates with fibre diameter and length testing. Ask for the yarn test certificate that shows micron count and fibre length — this is the document that substantiates a "premium cashmere" claim.
Full farm-level cashmere traceability (like SFA-certified supply chains) is rare and expensive. For most UK brands at launch stage, what is achievable is: spinner-level certification (OEKO-TEX on the yarn), documented fibre spec (micron count, length), and a reputable spinner name you can share with buyers who ask. Do not claim full supply chain traceability unless you have verifiable documentation. "Sourced from certified spinners" is accurate and defensible; "traceable to the herder" needs evidence.
The most versatile cashmere gauge for the UK market. Produces a substantial jumper with good drape — warm without being bulky. Works well in both fitted and relaxed silhouettes. Uses 2/28 Nm or 2/26 Nm yarn. The standard AW cashmere jumper most consumers would recognise. Approx 200–250g per garment in adult sizes.
Fine-gauge cashmere (10–12gg) produces a lightweight, drapey fabric — excellent for transitional season pieces or layering. Uses finer yarn (2/48 Nm range). Requires higher-quality yarn as the fine construction magnifies fibre inconsistencies. More technically demanding to produce — not all factories are equally skilled at fine-gauge. The garment looks and feels premium; this is the product that shows off cashmere's natural properties.
Chunky cashmere (5gg, sometimes 3gg) creates a more relaxed, informal aesthetic. Popular for oversized fits and cable constructions. Uses heavier yarn (2/14–2/17 Nm). Cashmere chunky pieces command premium retail prices in the UK market and have a strong gift purchase profile. Lower fibre quality is more forgivable at chunkier gauges — this is where Grade B commercial cashmere is most defensible.
Ultra-fine cashmere at 14gg requires very high-quality yarn (sub-15 micron, long fibre) and skilled machine operators. Very few factories can consistently produce 14gg cashmere that holds a specification across a production run. When done well, the finished garment is exceptional — barely there hand-feel with structure. When done badly, it pills badly and loses shape within weeks. Only commission 14gg if you can verify the factory has current production references at this gauge.
| Item | Cashmere specifics | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| MOQ | 250–300 per colourway | Higher than lambswool due to yarn cost; some factories 300 for new clients |
| Sample cost (to UK) | £80–£200 per style | Higher yarn cost + DHL; budget for 2 rounds |
| FOB price (Grade B, 7gg) | $40–$65 | Grade A or Italian yarn: $65–$90+; blends: $28–$45 |
| UK import duty | 0% | UK–Türkiye FTA with EUR.1; cashmere qualifies under yarn-forward |
| UK VAT on import | 20% on CIF value | Reclaimable for VAT-registered businesses |
| Lead time (bulk) | 8–10 weeks from order | Yarn procurement adds 1–2 weeks vs lambswool |
The UK DTC cashmere segment (brands like Wyse, N.Peal, Johnstons at accessible pricing, independent labels) is well-established. Consumers are informed and compare on quality signals: fibre grade, ply, gauge, wash care. Provide fibre spec on your product page. OEKO-TEX certification adds credibility. UK buyers at this price point will check pilling after 5 wears — Grade A or B yarn is necessary, not optional.
Independent boutiques selling cashmere at £180+ expect documentation: fibre spec sheet, yarn certificate, care instructions, country of origin. Some require SMETA audit or RSL (restricted substance list) compliance. Start collecting this documentation from your first sample run, not when the buyer asks for it. Modern slavery statement (s54 Companies Act) applies when turnover exceeds £36m but is increasingly expected at boutique level as due diligence.
John Lewis, Liberty, Selfridges, and equivalent retailers require full vendor onboarding before any order: ETI Base Code adherence, factory audit (SMETA 2-pillar minimum), RSL compliance, GRS or equivalent for blends. The audit requirement alone rules out factories that aren't prepared for third-party inspection. For a brand entering department store trading, verify the factory's audit readiness before the commercial relationship begins.
Cashmere accessories (scarves, gloves, hats) — often at £60–£120 — attract gift purchasers who wouldn't commit to a £200 jumper. These can use Grade B or B/C blend at a more accessible price point, are simpler to produce (lower construction complexity), and have strong repeat purchase rates when quality is right. A cashmere accessories line alongside your hero jumper is a sound commercial model for early-stage UK DTC brands.
A serious manufacturer will name the spinner and provide a test certificate showing micron count and fibre length. "Good quality cashmere yarn" is not an answer. If the factory can't provide a test certificate, the yarn grade is unknown and the quality claim is unverifiable.
Production references at your specific gauge are the most useful proof of capability. A factory producing 7gg lambswool but that has never produced 12gg cashmere is not the factory for your fine-gauge cashmere line. Ask for physical samples from current or recent production — not renders or stock images.
Premium cashmere at 12–14gg requires newer Shima Seiki or Stoll machines. Older machines may not hold the tension consistency at fine gauge. Knowing the machine inventory also tells you whether WHOLEGARMENT production is available — an interesting option for cashmere where seam-reduction is a product quality argument.
For a cashmere product targeted at UK boutiques or department stores, factory audit documentation (SMETA or equivalent) and yarn OEKO-TEX certification are the minimum documentation set. Ask for these at enquiry stage — a factory that has them will produce them readily; one that doesn't will deflect.
We produce cashmere knitwear in Gaziantep on Shima Seiki flat-knit machines. We can specify Grade A or B yarn from named spinners with test certificates, work across gauges from 5gg to 12gg, and provide OEKO-TEX documentation for your retail buyers. Tell us your price point, gauge and market, and we'll tell you what's achievable.
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