A tech pack is the contract between your design intent and the factory's production. Here's what a knitwear tech pack must contain — and the gaps that cause the most problems.
A tech pack for knitwear is different from one for woven or jersey garments. The construction variables — gauge, stitch type, yarn count, linking method — are knitwear-specific and have to be written into the document explicitly. A vague tech pack doesn't just slow sampling; it means the factory makes choices that may not match your intent, and you pay for correction samples to discover that.
Technical flat sketch showing the silhouette, neckline shape, sleeve style, hem detail and any stitch detail placement. Include close-up call-outs for stitch pattern areas, collar construction and trim attachment points. Fashion illustration is not a substitute for a flat technical sketch.
State the stitch structure (jersey, rib, cable, intarsia, jacquard) and the gauge in needles per inch (e.g., 12gg, 14gg). If different parts of the garment use different gauges or stitch structures, map each zone. "Fine gauge" or "chunky" is not a spec — write the number.
Include: fiber composition and percentage (e.g., 80% merino wool / 20% nylon), yarn count (Nm or Ne), ply, twist direction if relevant, color reference (Pantone or RAL number for lab dip), and any origin requirement (e.g., non-Xinjiang, GOTS certified). "Soft merino" is not a spec. Your sample yarn choice will be the factory's default unless you specify otherwise.
A complete measurement chart with all points of measure (chest, body length, sleeve length, shoulder width, armhole, neck width, hem width) for each size in the run. State whether measurements are taken laid flat or on-body. Include tolerance in cm (±0.5 cm standard for knitwear, wider for chunky). Missing sizes or measurements delay production approval.
Beyond the core four: colorway reference per colorway (Pantone number or physical reference swatch, not a JPEG); label and trim specification (main label, care label, size label content and placement, zipper or button spec if used); seaming method (hand-linking, over-lock, WHOLEGARMENT — don't leave this to factory default); finishing treatment (garment wash, press, hand-feel treatment); and AQL inspection level (state which AQL standard and acceptable quality level you require — AQL 2.5 Level II is a common starting point for apparel).
A complete knitwear tech pack needs: a technical flat sketch (front and back with call-outs), stitch type and gauge specification, yarn specification (fiber, count in Nm or Ne, ply, color reference), a measurement chart for every size in the run, colorway references (Pantone or physical swatch), trim and label specs, seaming method, and the AQL inspection level.
Omitting the yarn count specification. Writing "merino" or "cashmere" without count (Nm or Ne) and ply means the factory uses whatever yarn they have in stock — which can produce a completely different gauge, weight, and hand feel from your intent. Always specify: fiber, count, and ply together (e.g., "2/28 Nm 100% merino").
Yes — a reference sample and a tech pack serve different purposes. The sample communicates aesthetic intent; the tech pack specifies measurement tolerances, size run, yarn composition, and AQL level. Without the written spec, the factory matches the look but may grade sizes incorrectly or use a different fiber composition than you intended.
AQL 2.5 Level II is the most common starting point for apparel and sets a statistically valid inspection quantity. For luxury or high-end collections where defect tolerance is very low, tighten to AQL 1.0. State the standard explicitly — "AQL 2.5 Level II per MIL-STD-1916" is unambiguous with experienced production factories.
1–2 weeks before sampling begins, to allow the factory to review specs, flag missing information, and order any custom yarns or trims with their own lead times. Custom dye colors (lab dip) can add 2–3 weeks if not pre-ordered. Incomplete tech packs submitted at the last minute are the single most common cause of delayed first samples.
OEM Manufacturing
We work with your tech pack from day one — clear feedback, no middlemen, proto in 12–14 days.
See OEM services →Send us your tech pack — even if it's not complete. We'll review it and flag what's missing before sampling starts, not after.
