Yarn Count Explained
Yarn count is the spec that quietly controls how fine or heavy your knit is. Once you can read “2/28Nm”, you can talk yarn with any mill.
Yarn count measures a yarn's thickness — its linear density. It pairs with gauge to determine the weight, drape and feel of the finished knit. There are a few systems, which is where the confusion starts.
The systems
- Nm (metric count) — the most common in knitwear. Higher Nm = finer yarn. It's the metres of yarn per gram.
- Ne (English cotton count) — common for cotton; higher = finer.
- Denier — grams per 9,000 m; used for filament yarns (nylon, polyester). Higher = thicker.
- Tex — grams per 1,000 m; higher = thicker. The straightforward metric option.
Note that count systems run in two directions: in Nm and Ne, higher means finer; in denier and tex, higher means thicker.
Reading a count like “2/28Nm”
This means two strands (ply) of a 28Nm singles yarn twisted together. The first number is the ply; the second is the singles count. More ply or a lower count gives a heavier, denser yarn; fewer ply or a higher count gives a finer one.
Count + gauge work together: a fine count on a fine gauge gives a light, refined knit; a heavier count on a chunky gauge gives a cosy winter piece. Specify both in your tech pack.
Don't know the count?
You don't need to — describe the weight and hand-feel you want (or send a reference garment) and we'll translate it into the right count and ply. Send a reference and we'll spec the yarn.
Ready to make it?
Send a tech pack, a reference garment or a brief. We respond within one business day with a capacity check, indicative pricing and a sample timeline — direct with the founder.