The Knitwear Sampling Process
Sampling is where your tech pack becomes a real garment. Knowing the stages — and how to give good feedback — is the difference between two rounds and six.
Once your tech pack is in, sampling begins. This is the back-and-forth that turns a spec into a garment you'd put your label on. It's normal for it to take a few rounds — but the more you understand the stages, the fewer rounds you'll need.
The sampling stages
- Proto / first sample — the initial interpretation of your tech pack. It confirms the overall look, construction, gauge and stitch. Expect to refine from here.
- Fit sample (SMS) — corrected to your measurements and fit comments. Often the round where things click.
- Pre-production (PP) sample — made with the actual bulk yarn and final everything (labels, trims, colour). This is what you approve to start production.
- TOP sample — "top of production", pulled from the real bulk run to confirm it matches the approved PP.
Why the first knit sample takes 10–14 days
Unlike cut-and-sew, a knit sample isn't sewn from existing fabric — the fabric and the garment are created together. The factory has to source the right yarn (mills have their own lead times), program the knitting machine for your gauge and stitch, knit, link and finish, then QC. That's why a realistic first-sample window is 10–14 days from an approved tech pack and yarn selection. Simple constructions can sometimes go faster.
Sample costs typically run $80–180 depending on complexity — covering yarn, machine set-up and the hand-work to make a single piece. It's the cost of getting bulk right.
How to give feedback that saves rounds
- Be specific and measurable. "Sleeve 2cm longer", not "sleeves feel off". Mark up photos.
- Fit on a real body or a graded dummy — and note which size you're commenting on.
- Separate fit from fabric. Is the issue the measurement, or the yarn/gauge hand-feel? They're fixed differently.
- Batch your comments. One consolidated round of changes beats five trickling emails.
- Approve in writing before bulk — the PP sample is your reference point.
How many rounds is normal?
For a straightforward style with a clear tech pack, two to three rounds to an approved PP sample is typical. Complex multi-colour intarsia or unusual constructions can take more. Good feedback and a complete tech pack are the biggest levers on getting there quickly — which is exactly why the tech pack stage matters so much.
Then what?
Once you approve the PP sample, bulk production runs in 45–60 days. See our full production process for the end-to-end picture, from tech pack to worldwide export.
Ready to make it?
Send a tech pack, a reference garment or a brief. We respond within one business day with a capacity check, indicative pricing and a sample timeline — direct with the founder.